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The Bermuda grass or “Cynodon Dactylon” is a type of grass native to Australia, Asia, Southern Europe and North Africa. Aside from being tough and fast growing, it can creep underneath the ground and it will root every time a node will touch the ground. With this tactic, it can then form a dense type of mat.

The Bermuda grass has the scientific and binomial name “Cynodon Dactylon”. It belongs to the Kingdom Plantae, Division Magnoliophyta, Class Liliopsida, Order Poales, Family Poaceae, Genus Cynodon and Species C. Dactylon.

Other terms for the Bermuda grass are as follows:

• Durva grass

• Dog’s Tooth grass

• Devil’s grass

• Bahama grass

• Indian Doab

• Couch grass

• Scutch grass

• Grama

The Bermuda grass is a type of grass native to Australia, Asia, Southern Europe and North Africa. Although it is called Bermuda, it got it’s named due to its abundance as a kind of invasive species in Bermuda.

The Bermuda grass’ blades feature a sort of grey-green coloration. They are generally four up to fifteen centimeters short and they have rough edges. The Bermuda grass’ erect stems have the capacity to grow from one up to thirty centimeters tall. In fact, it is very rare that you will see a Bermuda grass about 90 centimeters tall. Aside from this, its stems are somehow flattened and oftentimes showcasing a tinged purple for its coloration.

Moreover, the production of the Bermuda’s seed heads is usually in clusters of three up to seven spikes at the top portion of its stem. Every spike is measured and estimated to be about three up to six centimeters long.

Furthermore, the Bermuda grass has a deep rooted system. During drought situations, and considering that there’s a penetrable soil, its root system has the capacity to grow for more than two meters deep. This is although a large fraction of its root mass is approximately not more than 60 centimeters below the surface.

The Bermuda will creep underneath the ground and it will root every time a node will touch the ground, which then forms a dense type of mat. Aside from this, the Bermuda grass reproduces via seeds that run through rhizomes and runners. These seeds will grow starting at a temperature of more than 15 degrees Celsius. Optimum growth will also run between 24 degrees up to 37 degrees Celsius. During the winter season, the grass will become dormant and brownish in color. Only a full sunlight can promote a Bermuda grass’ growth. On the other hand, it can be retarded by a complete shade, such as a place near tree trunks.

With this, it is also a noted fact that the Bermuda grass can only be cultivated within the world’s warm climate regions. This is indicated to be thirty degrees south and about thirty degrees north in latitude. In the United States, it is only found along the country’s southern half, the regions with warm climates.

Since it is tough and fast growing, Bermuda grass is famously used for sports fields and cemeteries. Another reason is the fact that when it gets damaged, it has the ability to recover quickly, like when you cut it. In other temperate and warm climates, it is a noted desirable “turf grass”. Since it is also very aggressive and it tends to crowd out a majority of other grasses, plus invade other habitats, as already mentioned above, it is regarded as an invasive type of species. In fact, it can even grow in very poor soil. This is where gardeners derived its other name, “Devil grass”, from.

Hence, this weed, grass or Bermuda, is generally more native to the famous African Savannah. There are even instances where in fires in the Savanna area tends to destroy the Bermuda grasses there but the Bermuda was still able to recover quickly. It is even the first one to actually grow back.

Although it is a good choice of grass for dry sections, especially since it has the capability to spread very easily, it is also indicated to grow best in areas where there is heavy rainfall. This is because this region can keep the Bermuda’s leaves moist, green and having purple tips. Thus, due to its long roots, the Bermuda grass is very hard to destroy. You still need to apply herbicides to it. Plus, when it invades various other grasses, it has the tendency to develop into an “unmanageable weed”. This is actually a big problem of homeowners who already desire a different type of grass for their lawn. Moreover, it can disrupt the actual production of vegetables and low-growing fruits, such as summer squash and strawberries.

In the United States, the introduction of the Bermuda grass was from the plantings taken from Bermuda. Lawns in the United States’ southeastern regions adore this grass. Floridians, on the other hand, have a hard time growing the Bermuda due to a type of pest called Sting Nematode.

Yet, with the many wonderful inventions and discoveries in Science, the Bermuda grass is now very convenient in animal husbandry and farming. It is the best grass for cattle. It can also help stem serious land erosion brought about by over watering or excess rains.

Furthermore, the Bermuda grass has known ancient significance. The Bermuda grass is indicated to be the selected grass utilized in feeding India’s sacred cows. Ancient Romans utilized the liquid derived from the Bermuda grass’ stems as a type of diuretic.

Thus, another noted fact bout the C. Dactylon or Bermuda grass is that it has medicinal properties that are still being studied. This is although claims for this regard still lack the necessary scientific evidence up to now.

It is also noted that modern Homeopathy includes juices from the Bermuda grass for mixes that can reduce a person’s sensitivity to allergies. This is by placing small amounts of recognized allergens. Hence, it is also a fact that the Bermuda grass is an identified allergen. This is why it can lead to stuffy nose or even allergic symptoms for both people and animals. In a sense, this where the problem sinks in, the Bermuda grass may result to more problems, health wise, rather than it can actually cure illnesses.

Lastly, the Bermuda grass is noted to possibly give relief for chronic diarrhea or utilized as a type of antiseptic.

For more information on Bermuda Grass please visit our website.

When is the best time to transplant roses? This is one of the most common questions asked by novice gardeners and one of the most popular topics discussed by dedicated Rosarians. There are no right or wrong answers and any experience gardener will have his or her own rules regarding this based on experience. There are general guidelines offering good advice for novices to follow, which can give successful results. However, it is a good idea to keep a record of the dates when you transplant your roses and observe their progress. This will give you a clear indication of which is the best time for you, to transplant your roses given the type of climate you live in.

For generally guidance, the best time to transplant roses is during a time when they are dormant. In northern climates this period falls at the end of the winter season. In a warmer climate transplanting can take place in late autumn or winter

Exposed roots can be transplanted any time as long as the temperature is above freezing level. Rose transplants will not survive if they are subjected to 10 degrees below 0 F. Container grown roses can be transplanted at any time of year but Spring is best, this will give the roots chance to spread and strengthen themselves before the winter sets in.

It is possible, although it goes against the general rule, for you to transplant roses before they become dormant. It isn’t always necessary to wait, if you don’t want to, you can transplant at any time during the growing season even during the height of summer.

If you cannot wait until the growing season to transplant your roses then you will need to put some safety measures into place to ensure your roses survive the ordeal. Before you transplant during the growing season, please follow these steps.

1) On the day before you plan to transplant your roses, give them plenty of water, making sure the roots are thoroughly wet; this will protect the roots and help them survive

2) Choose and prepare the ground before hand, making sure the area is in a sunny position. The soil needs to be enriched and nourished with plenty of peat and organic fertilizer.

3) Transplant your roses as soon as you take them from the ground. It is vital that the roots are not subjected to sunlight and dry air. If this isn’t possible, keep the roses in a cool dark place, never expose to sunlight or heat, as this will damage your roses irreparably.

4) When you have successfully transplanted your roses you must water them thoroughly. Roses need constant watering during the growing season especially if they are adapting to new ground. Never let the soil get too dry, especially in the height of Summer.

5) There is no need to add any further fertilizer until you see new growth. If you add fertilizer too soon, before the roots have settled, you risk damaging them. The fertilizer may be too strong for the roots at this time. Remember, your roses have just experienced a traumatic disturbance during transplantation.

If your roses are not at their best and are beginning to wilt do not replant them during the growing season, otherwise you risk damaging them further, and they will not survive.

Roses are one of the most beautiful and aromatic plants that you could have in your garden. To obtain the maximum from your roses make sure you choose their location carefully. A well-positioned rose, which receives at least six hours sunshine everyday, plenty of air circulation, is in a reasonable quality soil which is not too waterlogged can produce the most beautiful flowers. As long as they are protected from freezing temperatures, have plenty of space for root growth and not overshadowed by other plants they will continue to grow year after year and give you the most amazing results and beautiful roses.

Check out The Joy of Rose Gardening now at http://www.roseflowergarden.com, to find great articles, advice, tips and much more on rose gardening topics.

It‘s not always easy to attain beauty and accomplish perfection, but by following basic guidelines you can ensure a beautiful show of roses. One of the basic tips is to learn how and when to water your roses and keep in mind there are good times and bad times. So to encourage your roses and reward yourself with the best display ever, all year round, just follow these simple steps:

Morning Dew

We all know how wonderful it is first thing in the morning, when the fresh due has settled and everything is coming alive before the sun becomes too warm. This is the best time to water your roses, so they are fresh and prepared for the heat of the day. If you leave it until later, the sun will evaporate most of the water, leaving little chance for it to reach the roots. If you water in the evening the coolness will keep your plant damp, the leaves will stay wet which can cause mildew. However, not all of us are awake with the lark and able begin our watering regime that early. If you can’t water early, do it as soon as you can. If it’s early evening, try not to get the leaves too wet, just concentrate on the roots of the roses. The leaves will take care of themselves by taking in natural moisture from the evening air, keeping them free from mildew, insects, pets and fungal diseases, which can all damage roses.

Hazy Heat

Roses are well known for being thirsty and it’s only a dedicated gardener who can keep up with the constant routine, but gardeners will be the first to tell you, that all the hard work and perseverance really does pay off. Roses on the whole require between 1 and 2 inches of water each week, one simple way of measuring rainfall is to invest in a rainwater gauge. You can then add the extra amount of water as needed to make up the 1 to 2 inches. The type of climate and soil that you have will determine the amount of water your roses consume. This is where your previous hard work pays off, by watering your plants well in spring you will have made your plants hardy and held them in good stead for the hot dry days of summer. You do need to be aware of the warning signs that not all is well and to keep these in mind when observing your roses. If the leaves are beginning to wilt then they probably just need their thirst quenching. If they are turning yellow and starting to drop off then that’s a sign you are over watering and the plant is unable to breathe the oxygen because of water saturation.

It is also important you check for adequate drainage or ground that is not level, roses like a lot of water, but they don’t like standing in puddles, so be mindful not to get carried away with the water hose.

Start at the bottom

The golden rule to remember is to always start watering at base of the plant where most of the energy and development takes place. The roots need to be healthy and strong to help the roses grow. The plants will take moisture from the air and draw from the roots. One way to ensure a constant water supply is to set up a drip feed or hose to irrigate the soil. Rose plants could receive approximately 1 to 2 gallons of water per foot per hour, according to the type of hose and pressure of your water supply. You could set up a timer to turn the water on and off at intervals during the day, very useful when you haven’t the time to water or have to be somewhere else.

No Pests Allowed

To prevent pests from destroying your roses it’s a good idea to spray every two or three days with just a fine mist of water, check your hose for a fine setting. A good quick wash will keep insects at bay but not enough to encourage mildew. Take care to flush the inside of the foliage where pests can collect. If you can do this early in the day it will give the leaves time to dry before the sun goes down and the temperature cools.

Check out The Joy of Rose Gardening now at http://www.roseflowergarden.com, to find great articles, advice, tips and much more on rose gardening topics.

Aquariums provide a number of great benefits. They are beautiful additions to the home, for example. Watching the gentle movements of the fish can also help reduce stress levels in humans.

Before you begin putting together your own dream aquarium, there are a few points you should consider first.

Freshwater or Tropical?

The biggest decision you need to make is whether your aquarium will contain fresh water or tropical fish. Obviously, the two can’t be blended together. If you’re not sure which you prefer, here are some factors to help you make that decision:

* Experience - If you are new to aquariums, then go with a fresh water tank. Tropical fish are more difficult to maintain, even for people with lots of experience.

* Budget - If money is tight, then go with a fresh water aquarium. These are usually much cheaper to set up.

* Appearance - If you have your heart set on a gorgeous aquarium full of colour, then you should go for a tropical aquarium. You’ll have more options and the colours are often more vibrant.

* Room - Space is an important factor. Fresh water aquariums can be very small so if you have a small apartment then this might be the right choice for you. If you’re trying to fill up a blank wall in your living room, then a tropical aquarium might be a wiser pick.

* Fish- Go to your local aquarium store before you make this decision and look at the selection of fish. Do you see some varieties you’d want to include in your own aquarium? Find out what type of environment they need and let that be a factor in your decision.

If you’re still unsure about which to choose, do some research on the Internet or read a few library books on the topic to help cement your decision.

Preliminary Steps

After deciding on a type of aquarium, you’ll need to begin purchasing supplies. Always purchase the supplies prior to buying the fish. You need the aquarium to be up and running for a few days before you introduce any living creatures.

Obviously, your supplies will include the tank itself, a cover, a net, coverscape (the material that goes on the bottom of the tank), plants (either real or artificial) and some hiding areas (castles, rocks, caves, etc.). Depending on the tank and the fish you choose, you may also need to purchase a heater, a filter, salt water mixture and other items.

Do your homework before you get to the store so you’ll know what is necessary. Don’t let a pushy sales clerk convince you to buy things you don’t need.

Follow the directions on your supplies and set up the aquarium. You want to watch the whole thing for 24 to 72 hours to make sure the water is staying at the correct temperature, the filter is working, and that the environment will be healthy for your new fish.

Finally, you’ll want to select your fish. Choose fish that will live well together. Also pick fish that eat at various levels in the aquarium: some eat at the top, others from the middle and others from the bottom. Having some at each level means you’ll have less food left over in your coverscape.

Make sure to purchase the right type of food for your fish as well.

By following these basic steps, you can be on your way to creating your own amazing aquarium in your home or office.

Derek Rogers is a freelance writer who represents a number of UK businesses. For information on aquariums, he recommends Seapets, one of the UK’s leading suppliers of home aquarium.

Composting is not only one of the best things you can do for your garden, it is also one of the best things you can do for our environment. Knowing how to create and use compost is in our interest due to the tremendous problem of waste disposal. Landfills are becoming more and more difficult to find, so some municipalities are dealing with waste by refusing to pick up leaves and grass clippings.. About one-third of the space in our landfills is taken up with organic wastes from our yards and kitchens, which are ideal materials to be used in compost.

The end product from your compost bin it will be a wonderful pile of black, crumbly humus which makes an ideal soil conditioner. Compost added regularly to your soil will benefit the soil by improving it’s texture such as loosening up clay soils and will create moisture holding capacity in sandy soils.

Composting, is the controlled decomposition of biodegradable organic matter. Instead of allowing nature to take its slow course, a compost pile or bin provides the optimal environment in which decomposition can thrive. To encourage the best results, the compost pile needs the correct mix of the following ingredients:

* Carbon

* Nitrogen

* Oxygen

With enough time, all biodegradable materials will eventually decompose, although some materials are not appropriate for backyard composting. Most backyard systems will not reach high enough temperatures to kill pathogens and vermin, so certain items such as meat scraps, dairy products and pet droppings are discouraged from use. A well balanced compost pile will not have an offensive smell

High carbon materials (browns), which convert to heat include:

* Dry straw and hay

* Autumn leaves

* Newspaper

High nitrogen materials (greens) which will allow the compost bacteria to thrive include:

* Green plant material such as garden residue, fresh hay, grass clippings, and weeds

* Animal manure; such as horse, cow, chicken, or guano

* Fruit and vegetable waste

* Seaweed (rinse well to remove salt)

* Coffee grounds and filters

A few leaf species such as live oak, southern magnolia and holly trees are too tough and leathery for easy composting, also avoid all parts of the black walnut tree as they contain a plant poison that survives composting. It is also common sense to avoid using poison oak, poison ivy, and poison sumac in your compost.

The proportions of these materials will make a difference in the rate of decomposition. The best ratio is about 25 or 30 parts of browns to one part of greens. Too much carbon slows the composting process and too much nitrogen will cause odors.

As a convenience, keep a small compost pail in the kitchen to bring your scraps to the pile every few days. Keep a lid on the container to discourage insects and odors.

A well chosen site will speed up the composting process. Find a level, well drained sunny area preferably over dirt or grass. If you plan to be using kitchen scraps, keep it close to the back door and also close to the garden so that it will be used on a regular basis and not forgotten.

Home composting uses a variety of techniques, running from passive composting (throw everything into a pile in the corner and leave it alone) to active, which consists of monitoring temperature, turning the pile on a regular basis and adjusting the materials on a regular schedule. A well managed system may produce a finished product in as little as three to four weeks, but this involves some participation, ranging from turning the pile on a regular basis to a major commitment of time and energy.

Is very helpful to have a compost bin enclosed in a structure either homemade or purchased. The bin should measure at least about 3 ft. by 3 ft. and should have air spaces so air circulation can occur. Materials such as used freight pallets, chicken wire, builders’ hardware cloth or concrete blocks can all be utilized to create a three sided structure. You may find it desirable to have two bins, one for fresh material while the composting process is happening in the other bin. Leave one side open for access or create a gate that can be opened for access. A tarpaulin may be used to cover the top of the bin in rainy weather to prevent the compost from getting too wet.

Start your compost pile with a 3 in. layer of course plant material such as small twigs or straw. Next place your first layer of plant and kitchen refuse. The next layer should be a nitrogen rich material such as fresh manure if it is available, fresh grass clippings, fresh hay, or succulent green weeds. If the waste materials are fairly free of soil, a small amount of soil, a compost starter, a layer of old compost or good gardening soil added to each layer will introduce necessary microorganisms.

Water the pile just enough to keep the contents moist but not soaking wet. In a week or two, the pile should heat up to approximately to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. At this temperature many of the weed seeds and harmful organisms will be killed. Approximately a month after this point the pile should be forked over to thoroughly mix the materials in the pile. Repeat this step in another five to six weeks. If the pile is decreasing in size after this time, you will know that it is composting properly.

The finished compost will be black and crumbly, like good loam, with a pleasant, earthy smell. The compost is now ready to use.

Another system of composting is called sheet composting. A layer of organic material, about 3 to 4 in thick is spread over your garden, and then covered with a 2 in. layer of soil. The organic material is allowed to decay at least three months prior to cultivating. This can be done over the winter when your garden is fallow and will provide you with a good start for your spring crops.

A different concept of composting that is rapidly gaining in popularity is worm farming, or vermiculture. Small scale vermin-composting is well-suited to turn kitchen waste into high-quality soil, where space is limited. There are suppliers of worm-farming equipment on the internet to help you get started.

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Dick Murray is a retired urbanite who has kept his passion for gardening alive with the creation of an informational web site dedicated to vegetable gardening basics. More and more families are beginning to grow their own fruits and vegetables due to their increased concern regarding the quality, price and safety of our food supply. http://www.vegetable-gardening-basics.com

When it comes to great summer flowers, just about anybody can go to the store and buy some that are ready to be displayed in their house, but there’s a certain satisfaction that comes from planting and raising your own flowers for the summer season. Here are a handful of tips to keep in mind when planting your own summer flowers this season.

Prepare the Soil

Take the time well ahead of when you plan to plant the seeds to really prepare the soil you’re going to use. Make sure to dig about six inches deep and give the soil a good turning over, and then be sure to add fertilizer, mulch, or compost to really get the nutrients into the soil that your flowers are going to want.

Doing this ahead of time ensures that when you are ready to plant you don’t have to worry about the soil not being ready, or having to spend extra hours preparing it and then planting your flowers. A little preparation can save you a huge amount of time later.

Plant by Size

If you’re planting your flowers against a wall, make sure to plant the taller ones (like sunflowers) back against the wall, with the smaller ones further away from the wall. If you’re planting your garden in the middle of an open space, you’ll want to plant the taller ones in the center, with the smaller ones radiating out from there.

These two configurations allow for all of the plants to get enough sunlight without having to compete with each other and insures that all of your flowers will be visible to both you and anybody else that might be enjoying your garden.

Plant Plenty

To help compensate for losses to insects and birds, plant the seeds closer than recommended on the package, as well as planting more than you expect to grow. Weather, wildlife, and any variety of other causes can leave you with far fewer plants than you put into the ground, and planting extra means you don’t have to worry about a sparse garden when everything blooms.

Be Colorful!

With so many summer flowers out there – sunflowers, petunias, marigolds, and cosmos just to name a few – there’s no reason that your summer garden should be anything less than a bright spot of color for your home. Don’t limit yourself to one type of flower or one color scheme, mix and match and brighten up your garden, lawn, or backyard with bright and colorful summer flowers that are sure to be a pleasure for you and your family to enjoy all season long.

Have Fun

The most important part of planting your garden this summer season is to make sure you have fun with it. Plant lots of flowers, plant more than one garden, get your family involved, get your neighbors involved, plant in patters – whatever you want to do to make sure that your flowers are something that you enjoy from the moment you start turning the soil to when you sit back and watch them bloom.

Steve Papoulakos is the president of Vogue Flowers, a Richmond florist that allows you to send roses and buy flowers from our stock of amazingly fresh flowers. We can be found online at: http://www.vogueflowers.com .

The art of cloning plants could be the most useful of all ‘indoor’ techniques. Cloning allows growers to make the most of every female plant and it’s a skill that anyone can master with a little practice.

Outdoor growers who clone their plants are able to identify gender early in the season and multiply their female plants during the long vegetation period. With low-powered artificial lighting, a promising female can even be preserved for next year’s outdoor crop.

Due to its common association with indoor growing and hydroponics, cloning might appear to be a complex process. In fact, nothing could be further from the truth.

Just as cannabis seedlings will take advantage of the smallest chance to grow, cuttings will quickly make roots and become healthy small plants if a few conditions are met.

Good cuttings are made from strong, green stalks, preferably the growing shoots of the stem and branches.

If possible, cuttings should be 10-20cm long and a few millimeters thick. Avoid stems that are turning woody or hollow, as these are less likely to root. If the aim is to produce a few strong cuttings from each plant, growers should select 12cm sections of the healthiest top shoots. Larger cuttings have more energy and have a better chance of surviving.

If the aim is to make as many clones as possible, any 5-10cm piece of green stem with a growing shoot and a leaf or two can be used. A 30cm branch can be cut at each internode, making 3-6 clones. Tiny cuttings can also turn into clones, though they may take too long to grow to a decent size after rooting. Nevertheless, pieces of stem 3cm long and 1mm thick can root with vigour in bright, humid conditions.

Before planting, treat cuttings with rooting hormone in powder or gel form.

While a good soak in rooting solution is enough to get many clones started, a final treatment with a rooting aid that clings to their stems will increase success rates.

With a razor blade, make a diagonal cut to remove the last millimeters of stem, then dip the cutting in hormone powder/gel. To encourage rooting, many growers gently scrape the lower stems before dipping. A disposable safety razor is a good way to remove a couple of ultra-thin slices from the stalk.

Place treated cuttings in a moist, airy medium that holds them firmly – expanding peat tablets, a 50/50 mix of soil and perlite, cocoa-fibre or rockwool, if available. Clones have no problem rooting in a small rockwool block, then being transferred to soil.

After planting, outdoor clones are given the natural light cycle. Some growers shade rooting clones during the hottest part of the day, while others adopt a ‘survival of the fittest’ attitude. Viable clones will appreciate direct sunlight, and should root quickly.

In hot, dry climates, rooting clones may require a transparent covering to retain humidity. Keep the clones’ medium moist, but not saturated. In good conditions, clones should root in 10-20 days.

Cloning for Sex

The first clone taken from a plant can reveal the parent’s gender with 100% accuracy. It’s easy to reduce the light cycle of cuttings – allow them 12 hours of daylight, then cover them or move them to a dark area. This is much simpler than covering a single branch of a large plant to reveal gender.

When seed-plants reach 30cm, they can yield a cutting or two, which can be given a 12/12 light cycle immediately upon being planted. They will show their gender in 10-14 days, and in many cases they’ll root as well.

It’s fine if these first clones don’t become healthy small plants. Their purpose is to reveal the gender of the parent early in the season, allowing males to be eliminated and all subsequent cuttings to be taken from female plants.

As an added bonus, cloning for sex causes seed-plants to be ‘topped’ early in the season, leaving plenty of time to regenerate a strong double-stem.

Cloning to Multiply

Outdoor growers with plenty of space may clip plants to train them into huge bushes, while balcony growers often cut plants solely to restrict their size.

In both situations, cloning allows extra plants to be made from foliage that is normally discarded.

To keep a balcony plant around 1m by the end of flowering might require quite a lot of pruning. Instead of throwing away over 50% of a female plant during the growing phase, the removed foliage can be made into dozens of copies that plant, all of which will finish under the required height.

Growers who prune plants to make them large and bushy can produce huge numbers of clones. Branches are clipped at regular intervals throughout the vegetative phase to encourage them to split and grow in two directions. As plants increase their size and number of branches, each pruning will yield more cuttings than the last. While this might eventually produce more cuttings than most growers could use, remember that a rooted female clone makes a lovely gift.

Late Cloning

Indoors, cuttings are almost always taken while plants are in the growing stage, as the aim is to preserve a plant in its vegetative state. Outdoors, it is even possible to take clones during the initial weeks of flowering, when the first single flowers begin to show. Cuttings from plants that have begun to flower will often root more quickly than normal clones and should continue blooming at the same rate as the parents.

This means that even in the final, pre-flower trimming (where lower and inner branches with little budding potential are clipped), outdoor growers can clone any viable pieces of stem that are removed from plants.

Every green section of stem with a healthy internode can become a small plant when treated with kindness. Six branches cut from a medium-sized plant in July or August could be turned into 10, 20 or 30 cuttings. Even with a low survival rate of 20%, the result can be a few bonsai flowering plants.

If you’re growing outdoor plants this year and you’ve never made clones, you could try the following experiment just to see how easy it is to produce them, even if you have no particular need to multiply your harvest.

• Fill a few small pots with moist, airy soil.

• With sharp scissors, cut a few growing shoots or minor branches from your plants – nothing that you or the plant will miss – just enough to make ten or twelve cuttings of 5-10cm.

• Give the stems of the cuttings a gentle scrape with the scissors, or your fingernail (some growers use their teeth), and plant a few cuttings firmly in each pot.

• Leave the pots in the sun and make sure they don’t dry out.

• In two or three weeks, you should have a few rooted clones as a result of 20 minutes’ work.

• Any extra care and attention given to future cuttings will greatly improve their survival rate.

The author is a Cannabis enthusiast who is committed to promote the environmental and social benefits of Cannabis in general and Medicinal Marijuana in particular. Please follow the link for more information on Cannabis and Hemp.

Imagine a life without chemicals and therefore being able to live in a more “green” manner. Wouldn’t it be great to have a 100% natural, environmentally friendly and renewable source that you can use for most of your routine tasks and eliminate chemical-based products in the process? There are forums, activist groups and major campaigns targeted towards making the planet greener and safer place to live in. We hear talks and news reports about how modern technology and chemical based products are polluting the environment and how slowly but steadily we are causing the earth to become more and more polluted. While there are many who are not affected even remotely by such discussions there are many more who care and wish to make a contribution towards reducing our “carbon footprint” on this earth.

It seems almost impossible for individuals to join together and rally the big companies for change toward greener living. It is easy, however, to make small adjustments to our lives individually. It is like the old saying: Millions of small drops make a vast ocean. Each of us can contribute towards betterment of the environment by using alternative natural methods in our daily life and avoiding products containing pollutants, which destroy the environment and negatively impact our health. One way of preserving the environment is the use of soap nuts for performing routine tasks such as cleaning, washing and laundry. Many people are not aware of this natural fruit that makes it possible to be “greener” while going about our daily lives.

Soap nuts are the fruit of the Sapindus tree that is native to India, Nepal and some other South Asian countries. They require warm and tropical weather conditions for their growth. They are an excellent source for all cleaning purposes and the process of harvesting them is purely natural and does not include the use of any chemicals or toxins. A soap nut consists of a small inner fruit and a solid outer shell. It is the shell that is of most use in preparing soap nut based cleaning products. The fruits are simply picked up after they ripen and fall out of trees and dried naturally in the sun; then they are ready for use. In fact, these soap nuts contain a substance called saponin which is extracted, and then used in commercial soaps and detergents. When the shell of the soap nut comes into contact with water, the saponin is released, allowing water to penetrate the fabric and remove grime from the fabric.

Why should you use soap nuts?

Soap nuts have anti-microbial properties which make them excellent for bathing purposes. They keep the skin smooth, protected and free of infections. They are great for people suffering from eczema and other skin disorders.

Soap nuts can also be used as a natural additive to shampoos and bath gels. Soap nut liquid or powder can be used to wash hair effectively. The process removes and treats bacteria, lice and prevents scalp infections from occurring. Soap nuts are also known to add luster, body and smoothness to hair.

Soap nuts are also an excellent insecticide. Make a mild solution of soap nuts to spray on the plants in your garden everyday. This keeps common insects away from your garden.

Soap nuts are also used for household cleaning. Make a liquid solution and use it to spray down counters, sinks, floors etc.

Soap nuts are a very effective and safe laundry detergent alternative. They do not contain any chemicals and are safe for all laundry, including cloth diapers, lingerie and hand washables.

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An outdoor pergola is a standing structure which typically is used for shading or covering a specific area in an outdoor living space. The two separate design styles of pergolas are described as being either free standing or attached to a solid wall, such as the side of your home. Pergolas can be designed in a combination of different shapes and sizes, the most popular shape being a rectangular. That being said, a pergola can be almost any shape, even curved. Curved pergolas, however, can be quite costly due to the additional labor involved. They are often designed in the shape of an arc. These fit nicely along a curved hardscape surface.

A free standing pergola gives you the flexibility of being able to cover any area of your garden, patio space, or pool. For example, you may have a patio space which was designed adjacent to your pool decking. A pergola could be built over this area, regardless of the shape of the patio, for the purpose of decor and shade. It’s beautiful to look at and provides much comfort on very hot, sunny days.

If you choose to attach a pergola to your house, it could give way to the perception that extra space has been added to your home. It can be attached directly onto the side of your house similar to a porch covering. Pergolas can also be placed free standing directly next to the house, say, to shade a portion of the walkway up the side of your house or a sunny patio. Pergolas often become interesting architectural elements, which creates some excitement to the total landscape design.

When attaching a pergola to a house, certain things must be considered. The height of the pergola must be looked at as compared to window heights. You don’t want the structure to be in the middle of your window. In addition, think about the view looking out from the interior of your house. Viewing the lattice at the top of the pergola may be something that you don’t want, yet sometimes this is not considered an obstruction.

Once the pergola is placed in the desired area, it can then be beautifully designed with an array of arbor vines, plants and flowers. The most commonly used vines are Roses and Wisteria which add beauty to any type of pergola design. The lattice design on top of the pergola, as well as the high columns which are indicative of a pergola, would welcome either of these types of vine.

The pricing of a pergola takes into account many factors. The type of wood used, the design itself, and the expertise of a contractor are just a few of the things taken into account when pricing your pergola. Heavy columns, intricate lattice work and other details will add to the cost. As a rule of thumb, if you simplify the structural design and concentrate more on the landscape design around the pergola, this should cut down on the cost of the overall project.

Susan Schlenger is a Landscape Designer with a degree in Landscape Architecture. You can read more about the Outdoor Pergola at her website.

What do yellow roses represent is a question asked by people interested in yellow roses and before purchasing these beautiful roses.

Yellow roses were found growing in the Middle East around the 18th century. Wild roses from Afghanistan and Southwest Asia bloomed in pale yellow and a deep sulfur color. They were immediately renounced and grew quickly in popularity. The yellow rose at that time had no fragrant and although extremely beautiful this was a drawback. Also about this time techniques were being introduced in the field of rose cross-breeding and hybridization. As these techniques evolved they were able to add a pleasant aroma to the yellow rose.

In the beginning the yellow rose was associated two ways. The first was a negative connotation as a symbol of jealously and dying love. The positive symbolism was associated more with the color. The color yellow is related to the sun. The sun is known as a source of light and warmth an integral to life on Earth. As time passed the yellow rose was connected more to the color yellow rather than to the negative symbolism. Now they are related to joy and friendship and get well soon.

Yellow roses have different flower shapes. The globular is a bloom possessing many petals forming a ball-like arrangement with a closed center. An open-cupped is a bloom possessing many petals forming a cup-like arrangement with an open center. The quartered has inner petals folded into 4 distinct sections rather than forming a cone.

Yellow roses are available in several varieties. There are seven groups of roses. The classic rose is a long, pointed bud which opens to reveal many velvety or satin-like petals.

The Alpine Sunset is a yellow English bred rose. The flowers are very large and the fragrance is outstanding. These are great for cutting.

The Elina another yellow rose is the healthiest of Hybrid Teas. The flowers are borne singly on strong stems. Pointed buds open to produce porcelain-like flowers. These stand open well to poor weather.

Freedom has yellow pedals that do not fade with age and they fall cleanly. The scent is pleasant and the leaves are abundant.

Goldstar won top honors at The Hague. It has a special appeal for flower arrangers as the blooms are borne on long straight stems. The pure yellow blooms appear freely and the color does not fade with age.

Grandpa Dickson is regarded as the best pale yellow Hybrid Tea. Rose books sing its praises. Superbly formed blooms with long petals. It addition, its good rain resistance, freedom of flowering and late-season blooming makes it an excellent bedding variety.

King’s Ransom has straggly growth but has non-fading blooms that are high-centered and rain-resistant. They are beautifully shaped and excellent for cutting.

There are several other yellow roses available should you decide to grow your own.

A bouquet of yellow roses will absolutely bring a smile to the receiver of this exquisite rose.

What do yellow roses represent? They represent warmth and happiness and sunny cheerful feelings. Yellow roses can send the message of appreciation or platonic love. P These are perfect to be given to a great friend either as a bouquet or a plant for the garden.

For more information about roses, rose meanings, rose growing and how to care for your cut roses visit http://www.rosetypesonline.com. Thank You for your interest.